29th December '09
Last climb of the year!
A stunning day at Beinn Udlaidh with Greg with perfect ice formed on almost all climbs. The temperature read -13 Degrees at the car park in Crainlarich as we met to head up in one car . We had to rescue a poor bloke in a Honda Civic with low profile tyres on the B road down to the farm...he was going nowhere fast.
The walk up to the climb was very hard work due to the amount of turkey and beer consumed over the last few weeks and nothing to do with the steepness of the path. There were around 10 other teams on most routes including Quartzvien Peter Pan & other impressive ice falls.
We decided to climb Sunshine Gully (III ***) which was worth every star and maybe even worth another grade due to the steepness of the ice. I led pitch 1 following a slow team of three who were being guided by Alan Halewood's guide Spike. The start was most definitely the crux with about 10 - 15 ft of vertical ice...magic!! I had to belay short of the most natural position as the team ahed were still there. Digging for a decent nut and threading a huge icicle with a sling. I brought up Greg and after a short wait he led the easier pitch 2. Great climb with ice solid enough to take lots of solid screws.
We topped out at 3.30 and were back at the car for just before 5pm as it got dark.
Great fun!!
