Saturday, 13 June 2009

North Face Route: Buachaille Etive Mor

Colin and I set out at 8am for our first attempt at the infamous "Agag's Groove" on buachaille etive mor, stopping of at the green wellie shop for some supplies. Once again we'd playour cards right with the weather as our photos will confirm... not a cloud in the sky.



As we passed into Glen Coe I was instantly overwhelmed by the immensity of the sight that is " The Buachaille" and was glad of the chance to drop my jaws at the scenery, Colin was driving as usual.

It was about 10:30 when we started our glorious walk-in. This was a pretty easy one in comparison to the Cobbler... an easy forty minutes and a pretty gentle incline. Taking our directions from "Scottish Rock Climbs" we decided to do the link-up "North Face Route" severe *** in order to get to Agag's... this proved to be a highly ambitious plan.


We found the start of the route with relative ease, "gaining a recess". I was keen to do the first pitch and determined not to let the exposure get the better of me. This was the first pitch I had ever led on a big mountain route and for some some reason a was feeling rather zen about the climb ahead. Colin's reassurance no doubt played a great part in this.
I made it up some great climbing to the first belay then brought Colin up. I probably got off a bit lightly as the second pitch looked a bit tricky towards the crux, which Colin swiftly negotiated.
This is when the poor topo in the book and lack of directions got the better of us. We debated whether or not to go left on the top of the lower tier or right or abseil back down. In the end the latter won out, as the correct route wasn't as obvious as the book stated. All Good practice and descending mid-route. I was happy to hit solid ground.
Agags Groove will have to wait for another day... watch this space