Craig-A-Barns

Consolation Corner (V Diff)***, was easily lead by Derek on a blistering hot day in very sunny Dunkeld. Thankfully this line sits behind a tree offering very welcome shelter from the sun. We climbed this in 2 pitches to practice the belay changeovers which went very smoothly. This route, although quite polished, gives some fantastic climbing up cracks and corners to the top of the crag just below Hogg's Hindquarters. We will climb that next time. (Thirst drove us back to the bottom..)

We walked back down and then climbed Ivy Crack (VS 4c). A brilliant line up the left hand crack of Ivy buttress. After a difficult start it goes easy for another few meters before the final crux moves to the top. The first VS of the season....delighted. Abseiled of and headed to the Tay bank for obligatory stovies and cold Tuborg. Yet again...great day.

And Thanks to Mark for the prusik lesson - what are the chances of that.

Auchinstarry Quarry

Climbed for a few hours after work with Greg and the rest of the Glasgow climbers....or so it seemed. It was a busy as I've seen it with most of the popular routes being done. We started with Scream (S 4b) which Greg led and I just managed to second. I then led 'Mr ye can walk up round the back' (S) which is a fantastic climb up the crack / flake in the corner. Whilst I was half way up a guy fell off from half way up 'Mr Men' and hit the deck. He seemed OK, a sore ankle was all he suffered. He did manage it later as we were leaving. 

We ventured round the back area of the car park section and started up an unknown rote. A lack of gear meant we had to retreat but we will have a look with a top rope soon. 

We finished off with 'Slinky Lizard' (HS 4b*), again with Greg leading. I'm sure this climb is harder than the given grade....or maybe its because its so early in the season and I've yet to find my nerve??? Anyway a great route to finish off a pleasant evenings climbing.

Loudoun Hill

A very pleasant late afternoon / early evening session at Loudoun Hill today. Derek and I started with a very rocky / grassy wander up 'Nose Rib' (S 4a) on the eastern buttress. We had our eye on this from a previous visit but it was dripping wet so had to be left for another day. Interesting climbing despite the lack of any gear. I had to do some serious gardening to find a suitable belay on the grassy ledges above the roof. A small crack provided sufficient placement after a good cleaning. We continued straight up to the top through grass and rock before descending down into the west face via the amphitheater. I think we'll walk round next time tho'.
Derek: Also this was the first time I had climbed with my rucksack on. Should have left the 10 litres of water on the car. heres our route below...

And another of the same route

Next up was 'Strife' (S 4a*). This provided some easy climbing on good holds. A size 2 cam protected the crux, which, on this route is quite low down. A committing scrabble up with the feet gets you safe and from there positive juggy holds get you to the top. Great climbing!

We descended into the amphitheater where Derek led a very fine 'Frustration Wall' (HS 4b**) which as far as I am aware is his hardest lead yet?? Well done Denzil. Seconding this route is definitely scarier than the lead....why is that? I can definitely see where it gets its name.