A week in the wet 4 (Today was dry)

10th September Savage Slit (VD ****)

Finally we were rewarded for our weeks climbing in the wet with a beautiful day in the Cairngorms. Another early rise and 2 hour walk got us to the climb at about 10.30. We met some really friendly reindeer on the way too.

We scrambled to the base of the climb up a gully and had to rope up to complete the last section. We split savage slit into two pitches of which I led the first (35 m) and Chris the second (40 m).

The climbing was fantastic....very cold and windy until we reached the first belay where the weather just got better. A true classic well worth four stars.

A great end to a great week of climbing.

A week in the wet 3

8th September Polldubh

Pinnacle ridge (S) and an unknown crack behind it (around HS) seemed to be the only dry rock in Glen Nevis....and we found it. Pouring with rain and 80 mph gusts made this very interesting indeed. Great day.....cured the hangover too. I heard some one mention that 'mobility was impossible' on the summit of the Ben today....great phrase!!

A week in the wet 2

7th September Sron na Ciche

Got up at 5am for the 2.5 hour drive to Glen Brittle. A further 2 hour walk in saw us at the start of Cioch West (S). Conditions on the approach looked perfect but as we neared the hugley impressive cliff face the wetness started to reveal itself. Our intended rout was Cioch Direct, Arrow Route and Integrity. Cioch Direct was running with water so we opted for an equally wet but slightly easier (my arse) line of Cioch West. The usually grippy gabbro was nowhere to be found today we barley managed one pitch out of 11 before having to retreat. The climbing on CW was incredibly difficuly (easy HVS in the wet) as the holds and foot placements were few added to that were big boots and packs....we shall return. Two hour walk out and off to the Slig for a pint.

A week in the wet

6th September Huntly's Cave

Met up with Chris Sansum in Roy Bridge at the Climbers Club hut to prepare for 4 days of climbing. We had intended to try and tick off some long mountain routes but the weather was determined to put pay to that. On the Sunday we were planning to do Ardverikie wall on Binnein Shuas. We started the walk in and within 20 minutes got completely soaked. We decided that slab climbing in the wet was not going to be the best idea. It will have to wait, that one. We got in the car and made for the east.

As it was late in the day Cairngorm wasn't an option so Huntly's Cave was our destination. We climbed Cave Direct (VS 4b), Slot Direct (S **), Diagonal (VS 4c ***) and the classic of the crag Double Overhang (HVS 5a ***)

Ben An

29th August

Took a trip top Ben An to do a link up of the three tiers. Met Greg at 10 in the car park an made a soggy 30 minute approach to the first tier. When we arrived the rock was dripping wet and not yet in the sun. The rain shower that arrived with us didn't help either. We got racked up and waited on the rock to dry out a bit. We were determined to climb Ash wall but the crux was dripping. We started with Preamble (S) which has a very tricky start and pro is very sparse (1 nut in total I think). After this we decided to go for Ash Wall (S 4a**). The rock was just starting to dry out....fine climb with Greg leading this one. We then climbed Birch wall (HS 4a*). A tricky traverse in on a wet scoop leads to a layback up the corner. Next up was Rowan Rib (D) (Never a diff..more like VD) then on to the summit via The Last Eighty (S 4a***). By this time the rock was bone dry which made for an excellent end to the day.

Long Scar Langdale

For a change it didn't pour with rain when we visited the Lakes this weekend. Glorious sunshine made for some excellent climbing conditions. Pam and I had planned to climb on Scout Crag to build up some confidence with movement and rope-work. We checked out the climb when we arrived on Saturday evening with a view to climbing it first thing on Sunday morning. When we turned up to climb the crag had been set up for a group session with top ropes on all the routes...it would have to wait for another day.

We decided to head for Long Scar, a 25 minute walk from the car park on Wrynose pass. We climbed Intruders Corner (VDiff). An excellent route with poor protection at the start but really positive holds. The climb finishes up a V shaped groove with some awkward moves that push you out and off balance. Pam took some time to work out the crux (it was very reachy) but got there with no problems.

We then climbed Old Hoburn which is given (M) in the guide book but I would give it a (Vdiff -) due to the moves required.

We'll definatley return here to do Sams Saunter and Platt Gang Groove and maybe venture over to the nearby Black Crag.

Yet again a very enjoyable day.

North Face Route: Buachaille Etive Mor

Colin and I set out at 8am for our first attempt at the infamous "Agag's Groove" on buachaille etive mor, stopping of at the green wellie shop for some supplies. Once again we'd playour cards right with the weather as our photos will confirm... not a cloud in the sky.



As we passed into Glen Coe I was instantly overwhelmed by the immensity of the sight that is " The Buachaille" and was glad of the chance to drop my jaws at the scenery, Colin was driving as usual.

It was about 10:30 when we started our glorious walk-in. This was a pretty easy one in comparison to the Cobbler... an easy forty minutes and a pretty gentle incline. Taking our directions from "Scottish Rock Climbs" we decided to do the link-up "North Face Route" severe *** in order to get to Agag's... this proved to be a highly ambitious plan.


We found the start of the route with relative ease, "gaining a recess". I was keen to do the first pitch and determined not to let the exposure get the better of me. This was the first pitch I had ever led on a big mountain route and for some some reason a was feeling rather zen about the climb ahead. Colin's reassurance no doubt played a great part in this.
I made it up some great climbing to the first belay then brought Colin up. I probably got off a bit lightly as the second pitch looked a bit tricky towards the crux, which Colin swiftly negotiated.
This is when the poor topo in the book and lack of directions got the better of us. We debated whether or not to go left on the top of the lower tier or right or abseil back down. In the end the latter won out, as the correct route wasn't as obvious as the book stated. All Good practice and descending mid-route. I was happy to hit solid ground.
Agags Groove will have to wait for another day... watch this space

Craig-A-Barns

Consolation Corner (V Diff)***, was easily lead by Derek on a blistering hot day in very sunny Dunkeld. Thankfully this line sits behind a tree offering very welcome shelter from the sun. We climbed this in 2 pitches to practice the belay changeovers which went very smoothly. This route, although quite polished, gives some fantastic climbing up cracks and corners to the top of the crag just below Hogg's Hindquarters. We will climb that next time. (Thirst drove us back to the bottom..)

We walked back down and then climbed Ivy Crack (VS 4c). A brilliant line up the left hand crack of Ivy buttress. After a difficult start it goes easy for another few meters before the final crux moves to the top. The first VS of the season....delighted. Abseiled of and headed to the Tay bank for obligatory stovies and cold Tuborg. Yet again...great day.

And Thanks to Mark for the prusik lesson - what are the chances of that.

Auchinstarry Quarry

Climbed for a few hours after work with Greg and the rest of the Glasgow climbers....or so it seemed. It was a busy as I've seen it with most of the popular routes being done. We started with Scream (S 4b) which Greg led and I just managed to second. I then led 'Mr ye can walk up round the back' (S) which is a fantastic climb up the crack / flake in the corner. Whilst I was half way up a guy fell off from half way up 'Mr Men' and hit the deck. He seemed OK, a sore ankle was all he suffered. He did manage it later as we were leaving. 

We ventured round the back area of the car park section and started up an unknown rote. A lack of gear meant we had to retreat but we will have a look with a top rope soon. 

We finished off with 'Slinky Lizard' (HS 4b*), again with Greg leading. I'm sure this climb is harder than the given grade....or maybe its because its so early in the season and I've yet to find my nerve??? Anyway a great route to finish off a pleasant evenings climbing.

Loudoun Hill

A very pleasant late afternoon / early evening session at Loudoun Hill today. Derek and I started with a very rocky / grassy wander up 'Nose Rib' (S 4a) on the eastern buttress. We had our eye on this from a previous visit but it was dripping wet so had to be left for another day. Interesting climbing despite the lack of any gear. I had to do some serious gardening to find a suitable belay on the grassy ledges above the roof. A small crack provided sufficient placement after a good cleaning. We continued straight up to the top through grass and rock before descending down into the west face via the amphitheater. I think we'll walk round next time tho'.
Derek: Also this was the first time I had climbed with my rucksack on. Should have left the 10 litres of water on the car. heres our route below...

And another of the same route

Next up was 'Strife' (S 4a*). This provided some easy climbing on good holds. A size 2 cam protected the crux, which, on this route is quite low down. A committing scrabble up with the feet gets you safe and from there positive juggy holds get you to the top. Great climbing!

We descended into the amphitheater where Derek led a very fine 'Frustration Wall' (HS 4b**) which as far as I am aware is his hardest lead yet?? Well done Denzil. Seconding this route is definitely scarier than the lead....why is that? I can definitely see where it gets its name.

Recess Route at the Cobbler Severe 4c *** - Well Half of it

Colin: Unusually the cobbler had been dry for a few days prior to our visit. The wind had been blowing really strongly which helped to keep the rock bone dry. Great views to Ben Lomond and down Loch Long.

We had an idea of climbing Punsters Crack but as the final pitch was being blasted by the wind we opted for Recess Route instead. As this was our first climb of the year we were both feeling a bit apprehensive about this one. The strength of the wind wasn't helping much either. We completed the first two pitches then abbed off down into Ramshead Gully. The guide book suggests trending right at the top of the first crack. I opted for going straight up as the flake looked far more interesting....and so it proved to be. Some great bridging and 'back and foot' shimmying got me to the top of pitch two....magic.

Down to Ben Arthurs bothy for a pint and home for a ruby murray...(Derek: I reckon that curry was a V.S. what do you reckon?).

Back to do the remaining two pitches soon.....

Colin on Pitch 1...

Derek: We'll need to back up and finish this one. Man what a day... 3 Mile uphill walkin & almost took a whitey. This is a spectacular venue.
I was definitely a bit overwhelmed by the scale of the cobbler as it came into view.

This was my first ever BIGish Mountain Colin lead the first two pitches and I was more than happy to second. a bit disappointed that we didn't get to the top - next time.

Meall Nan Tarmachan

Today I went to Meall Nan Tarmachan (Creag An Lochain) with Adam Hughes from EICA Ratho. Adam was looking after us on our winter climbing course. We climbed Arrow Chimney IV on Arrow Buttress. The climb was mainly turfy (some overhanging...no kidding) with some short well formed ice pitches. The climb was 150m which we did in three pitches, the first requiring 60m of rope with about 3 runners placed. Warthogs were the order of the day...

After the route we set up a top-rope on a short ice fall and looked at footwork and axe placements before finishing up with a grueling walk out.......10 minutes

Check out more on Adams blog http://hughesmountaineering.blogspot.com

Beinn An Dothaidh

Our initial plan to climb False Rumour Gully on Beinn Dorian was thwarted by chest deep powder so we made the snowy traverse across to Beinn Dothaidh. Creag Coire an Dothaidh it was...

Climbed 'Centigrade' III* with Greg. Some really deep snow, frozen turf and some cracking ice...talk about a varied climb.

Amazing views from the top. Glorious weather. Top day.