Auchinstarry Quarry 15.08.09

Quick after work visit to Auchinstarry. Colin lead 'Mr Men' (VS 4b **). Great route up the arete in the corner of the car park section. Also lead 'Spirogyra' (VS 5a) which has quite a difficult hand jam to gain the top of the block then some airy steps lead to some strenuous pulling to gain the top. Cant wait to do that one again.

Derek lead 'Mr ye can walk up round the back' (S) and 'Slinky Lizard' (HS 4b *). I'll let him tell ye about that one.......

Colin and Pamela went back the next morning and ticked off 'Access Route' (Diff ***), 'Anarchist' (V Diff) and 'Tar' (S). Back home for lunch time .....splendid way to spend a morning.

Polney Crag: Craig A Barns

Derek leads Holly Tree Groove - (Vdif **)

Great climbing, what can I say. Although I did take a slight detour according to the “Scottish Rock Climbs” book which meant that I started on a more difficult slab with little to hold on to but with fairly good protection once I managed to get to my rack. Quick tip: you can't place gear if your lying on top of all your stuff.

Once past this part the climbing was fantastic and probably my most ambitious lead so far. As I traversed across I managed to place a lot of solid micro nuts behind a long flake before reaching a bulge that I protected by slipping one of my nice shiney hexes in behind. BOMBER! I then made my way round the corner of of Colin's sight where I was able to setup a nice belay position and wait for Colin to arrive.

Colin finished off the climb by continuing up the chimney, on to a nice big ledge and then up a small wall to a tree belay. Holly Tree Groove...DONE

"Cuticle Crack" (S**) was the next climb to be ticked off. A good climb with excellent protection. Crack starts quite wide then earns its name as it narrows further up. As usual it looked easier from the ground..........nae bother! One squashed camera later and we are both at the top.

A final ab down hairy gulley then off to the Taybank for Stovies and Tuborg.

Next time up its 'The Groove', 'Wriggle' and some more bouldering on Myopics butress....

Almost forgot.....Derek went home and removed a tick from his 'leg'...

Loudon Hill

Sittin here blammed on peroni & macallan... in front of the fire, reflecting on a day at Loudon Hill near Darvel (Aryshire). On a blistering hot day after deciding to give "Original Route" a miss, we decided to give "Pulpit Arete" (HS) a go. Colin stared leading and after a very precarious start managed to place a no 3 nut. (thank fuck) which aloud him to make easier moves up the arete. (Sips on another mouthfull of macallan ..... mmmmmmm macallan). After a few choice moves including traversing out on to the arete then back in again (good protection) he progresses up to the belay position.

When starting out, choosing the direct start rather than stepping out off the block, I was immediately overwhelmed by the mantle shelf required to progress to the easier holds. Once this obstacle was overcome the slab ascent seemed easier by comparison. The remaining climb was exposed but enjoyable with good jugs and footholds.

Craeg Dubh

23rd July

Newtonmore

Did the first pitch of King Bee (VS***). Fantastic climbing but nightmare day. Amongst the catalog of f**k ups, Brian fell of at the start, bruising his foot and destroying my flask. I managed to jam the ropes resulting in 40 minutes of removing the skin from my fingers. A hasty retreat was then in order.

Back to Aviemore for chips......best part of the day.

Huntly's cave

A very wet day everywhere except Huntly's cave. This was our first visit to the crag and it did not disappoint. A cracking lead by Brian made light work of the first pitch of Cave Route Direct (VS 4b ***). I stepped out onto the prow, pulled over the roof to finish.......magic!

Made a sharp exit to the car (still with gear on) as the midges got unbearable.

Quarry near oban - Blink and you'd miss it

Desperate for some climbing we headed out to an old quarry that Colin had spied on the drive up to Oban. Lots of loose rock but some interesting looking lines. What better way to spend your birthday (Derek's) than seeking out an old abandoned quarry and creating our own routes.

We tackled the obvious corner and the slab (pictured). Great fun!
The corner was deceptively hard and was glad for Colin to lead again. As a 2nd it was great fun although the whole area is over grown and required some serious negotiation of the foliage (no thats not a euphemism ) before we could even start. I also got to try out my new descender that Colin and Pam had given me as a birthday prezzy. sound!
We set up an anchor off some trees at the top then abseiled down the slab with a view to top-roping. I enjoyed the slab probably most of all. Quite steep with lots of nice little crimpy features.


Moothfullobush. (S)