Loudoun Hill08.05.10

Beinn Udlaidh

29th December '09

Last climb of the year!

A stunning day at Beinn Udlaidh with Greg with perfect ice formed on almost all climbs. The temperature read -13 Degrees at the car park in Crainlarich as we met to head up in one car . We had to rescue a poor bloke in a Honda Civic with low profile tyres on the B road down to the farm...he was going nowhere fast.

The walk up to the climb was very hard work due to the amount of turkey and beer consumed over the last few weeks and nothing to do with the steepness of the path. There were around 10 other teams on most routes including Quartzvien Peter Pan & other impressive ice falls.

We decided to climb Sunshine Gully (III ***) which was worth every star and maybe even worth another grade due to the steepness of the ice. I led pitch 1 following a slow team of three who were being guided by Alan Halewood's guide Spike. The start was most definitely the crux with about 10 - 15 ft of vertical ice...magic!! I had to belay short of the most natural position as the team ahed were still there. Digging for a decent nut and threading a huge icicle with a sling. I brought up Greg and after a short wait he led the easier pitch 2. Great climb with ice solid enough to take lots of solid screws.

We topped out at 3.30 and were back at the car for just before 5pm as it got dark.

Great fun!!

A week in the wet 4 (Today was dry)

10th September Savage Slit (VD ****)

Finally we were rewarded for our weeks climbing in the wet with a beautiful day in the Cairngorms. Another early rise and 2 hour walk got us to the climb at about 10.30. We met some really friendly reindeer on the way too.

We scrambled to the base of the climb up a gully and had to rope up to complete the last section. We split savage slit into two pitches of which I led the first (35 m) and Chris the second (40 m).

The climbing was fantastic....very cold and windy until we reached the first belay where the weather just got better. A true classic well worth four stars.

A great end to a great week of climbing.

A week in the wet 3

8th September Polldubh

Pinnacle ridge (S) and an unknown crack behind it (around HS) seemed to be the only dry rock in Glen Nevis....and we found it. Pouring with rain and 80 mph gusts made this very interesting indeed. Great day.....cured the hangover too. I heard some one mention that 'mobility was impossible' on the summit of the Ben today....great phrase!!

A week in the wet 2

7th September Sron na Ciche

Got up at 5am for the 2.5 hour drive to Glen Brittle. A further 2 hour walk in saw us at the start of Cioch West (S). Conditions on the approach looked perfect but as we neared the hugley impressive cliff face the wetness started to reveal itself. Our intended rout was Cioch Direct, Arrow Route and Integrity. Cioch Direct was running with water so we opted for an equally wet but slightly easier (my arse) line of Cioch West. The usually grippy gabbro was nowhere to be found today we barley managed one pitch out of 11 before having to retreat. The climbing on CW was incredibly difficuly (easy HVS in the wet) as the holds and foot placements were few added to that were big boots and packs....we shall return. Two hour walk out and off to the Slig for a pint.

A week in the wet

6th September Huntly's Cave

Met up with Chris Sansum in Roy Bridge at the Climbers Club hut to prepare for 4 days of climbing. We had intended to try and tick off some long mountain routes but the weather was determined to put pay to that. On the Sunday we were planning to do Ardverikie wall on Binnein Shuas. We started the walk in and within 20 minutes got completely soaked. We decided that slab climbing in the wet was not going to be the best idea. It will have to wait, that one. We got in the car and made for the east.

As it was late in the day Cairngorm wasn't an option so Huntly's Cave was our destination. We climbed Cave Direct (VS 4b), Slot Direct (S **), Diagonal (VS 4c ***) and the classic of the crag Double Overhang (HVS 5a ***)

Ben An

29th August

Took a trip top Ben An to do a link up of the three tiers. Met Greg at 10 in the car park an made a soggy 30 minute approach to the first tier. When we arrived the rock was dripping wet and not yet in the sun. The rain shower that arrived with us didn't help either. We got racked up and waited on the rock to dry out a bit. We were determined to climb Ash wall but the crux was dripping. We started with Preamble (S) which has a very tricky start and pro is very sparse (1 nut in total I think). After this we decided to go for Ash Wall (S 4a**). The rock was just starting to dry out....fine climb with Greg leading this one. We then climbed Birch wall (HS 4a*). A tricky traverse in on a wet scoop leads to a layback up the corner. Next up was Rowan Rib (D) (Never a diff..more like VD) then on to the summit via The Last Eighty (S 4a***). By this time the rock was bone dry which made for an excellent end to the day.